By Sharael Feist
June 2, 1999
Although folks don’t normally flock to the Northern Galltornla coast to soak up the sun, it does have miles of alluring beaches worth exploring.
Obviously, the Bay Area is different from your typical beach community — more often than not most people here grab a sweatshirt rather than a bikini when heading to the beach. But the foggy weather does mean less crowded beaches in the Summer. And in the Fall, when other parts of the country are starting to get chilly, Bay Area residents bask in long-awaited sunshine. Whether you’re looking for a place to walk your dog or build a bonfire, there are dozens of beaches from Monterey to Marin that offer something for everyone. So, bundle up and GO!
Drakes’s Beach:
North of Bolinas the beaches become less populated and more difficult to get to, but they are well worth the trek. Point Reyes National Seashore runs from Bolinas Lagoon to Tomales Point and has several secluded beaches including the most popular one, Drake’s Beach.
It’s worth the two-hour drive to get to this expansive strip that extends four miles along the protected Drake’s Bay. Located off Sir Francis Drake Boulevard, it has plenty of parking, restrooms, showers, a visitors center, picnic area and there’s even a cozy cafe.
Further north, the beaches are more remote and less accessible by car. This is a great place to go if you’re looking for less crowded, peaceful beaches and don’t mind the desolate drive. While in the area, check out the Point Reyes Lighthouse, but be ready to climb up and down the 308 stairs.
Bolinas:
Just north of Stinson is the hidden town of Bolinas, with its private beach, epic waves and amazing kayaking. It seems as though the locals would rather keep the town a secret and have made the town hard to find by taking down any road signs pointing the way to their peaceful place. The spray-painted road at the entrance of the town which reads “Tourists go home!” is also evidence that the residents would rather discourage an influx of strangers.
There is only one main street in town. If you take that street until it dead-ends then you’ll wind up at the beach. There is only street parking, so it can be tough to find. The beach is protected by a sand bar which makes calm water on the inside. It’s great for kayaking and peeling waves which break just off shore for insanely good surfing. But be cautious because there are no lifeguards on duty. Fishing, camping and campfires are allowed on this beach, as are dogs.
On a clear day you’ll have a breathtaking view of Twin Peaks in San Francisco. If you’re looking for a place where time stands still, check out Bolinas and its oceanic playground.
Stinson:
As Highway 1 curves up the coast northward, it leads to the largest beach in Marin County, Stinson Beach. This three-mile beach attracts visitors from all over the Bay Area, especially in the sunny months of September and October.
This lively beach offers plenty of activity including volleyball, fishing, surfing and picnic areas. Unless you want to be shark bait, swimming is not recommended. Even though this beach has plenty of room, dogs are not allowed. For summer munchies, there is a seasonal snack bar near the parking lot. The parking is free and the lot is large, but when the sun shines, the lot can fill up fast. Across the street from the beach there are various restaurants to tame the appetite.
The town of Stinson which runs parallel to the beach, is a laid-back community with surf shops galore. So kick-back and enjoy this slower pace of life, it is a nice change from the hustle and bustle of San Francisco.
Muir Beach:
Just across the Golden Gate bridge, about 30 minutes from San Francisco is Muir Beach. Located at the foot of Mount Tamalpais, this secluded, wind-swept beach is surrounded by enormous trees which give the surreal illusion of being in the mountains, despite the rushing surf. It is very peaceful, often adorned by the sounds of various birds serenading beachgoers.
The beach is only about mile long, but has a rugged scenery worth seeing. To the right of the beach is a steep cliff with houses perched on top overlooking the restless waves. Locals enjoy surfing at Muir Beach, but a wet suit is a must.
This is one of the few beaches where campfires are allowed, so be sure to pack some marshmallows. Dogs are also allowed, on a leash (although all the dogs I saw where running free). In addition to the beach, there are hiking trails in this area and picnic facilities, as well as restrooms.
Baker Beach:
Baker beach, located in San Francisco, is just off the Scenic 49 mile drive in the historic Presidio. This beach is a favorite among locals due to its convenient location and because it is somewhat protected from the howling winds of the Bay. It offers picnicking and fishing, as well as a dazzling view of the Golden Gate bridge and the Marin headlands.
For careless adventurers, MUNI bus 29 stops right at the beach. Dogs are allowed to be unleashed at this beach, which is good if you’re a dog owner, but might be a nuisance if you’re not (I saw one dog run off with somebody’s sandwich!). There are easy hiking trails that wind through the Presidio and down to the beach. And if you’re daring enough to take a quick dip in the frigid water, be aware that there are no lifeguards on duty and swimming is not recommended.
China Beach:
China beach is a secluded retreat for those who like a quieter beach scene. It is located just off 25th Avenue in the prestigious Sea Cliff community, where multi-million dollar mansions with ocean views line the streets. Take EI Camino del Mar Street to a small public parking lot above the beach. At the top of the paved path leading towards the water is a monument that welcomes visitors and says that the ” … cove was used as a campsite by many of the Chinese fishermen who worked in and around the San Francisco Bay.”
Sheltered by steep, rocky cliffs on both sides, China beach seems to be protected from the hOwling winds that pester Bay Area beachgoers and is a safe place to swim. There are lifeguards on duty April through October.
Visitors who don’t want to be bothered by sand can take advantage of the sun deck on top of the lifeguard station. The Golden Gate bridge and Marin headlands offer a picturesque backdrop, and on a clear day there is a beautiful view of Point Reyes lighthouse. This beach is small, but quaint and is a perfect place for picnics.
There is a grassy picnic area just off the beach with picnic tables and bar-b-ques, as well as public restrooms and showers. Dogs are not allowed at the beach, so you’ll have to leave your pooch at home to experience this peaceful cove.
Ocean Beach:
The longest beach in the San Francisco area is Ocean beach, which stretches four miles along the Great Highway. Although there is plenty of room to sprawl out, you’ll see very few beach towels or bikinis here. Ocean Beach is known for its cold, windy conditions and ferocious waves.
Swimming is not recommended here, due to powerful rip currents, although you will see surfers braving the chilly water to catch the “perfect wave.” (Be careful you don’t get flashed by surfers exposing themselves while changing out of their wetsuits in public. A law was recently passed that forbids this, but enforcement is pretty loose).
This spacious beach is a great place for dogs. Dogs are allowed off their leashes on the northern end. Ocean Beach is the perfect place to watch the sunset and has a fantastic view of Seal Rock, and if you listen carefully sometimes you can actually hear the seals barking.
There are public restrooms and a shower only at the southern end. The Beach Chalet and Cliff House restuarants are near the northern end and offer a stunning view to have lunch or dinner. It’s an endless stretch of beach, surfing, sunset, off-leash dog area, plenty of free parking.
All told, Ocean Beach is a great getaway for city dwellers who want to stick their toes in the sand and smell the soothing salty air.
Pacifica:
Pacifica State Beach, formerly known as San Pedro Beach, attracts droves of surfers. Longboarding is a popular sport here, which draws a young, athletic crowd.
There is a Taco Bell conveniently located close by, for those post-surf session munchies. Swimming is not recommended due to the cold water and formidable rip currents, but many people seem to risk it anyway. There are public restrooms, as well as showers to rinse away the salt water.
Fishing is permitted here, as well as clamming. Dogs are allowed, provided they are on a leash. Nestled near a cove of Pine and Eucalyptus trees, this rocky beach has a laid-back atmosphere.
There are also several other nearby beaches worth visiting in the area. Among them are Rockaway Beach, Grey Whale Cove (a nekkid beach), Montara State Beach, Dunes Beach, and Venice Beach.
Half Moon Bay:
The San Mateo County coastline is dotted with numerous beaches, and one of the most popular ones is Francis State Beach. It is located near Half Moon Bay, just off Kelly Avenue. It is not only a beach, but also a campground. A $5 fee is charged to enter the park.
There are public restrooms, showers and a picnic area well equipped with barbeques and tables overlooking the ocean. Swimming is not recommended. Dogs are allowed on-leash. There are hiking trails in this area worth exploring.
Just a short drive from Francis Beach is downtown Half Moon Bay, which has a main street cluttered with art galleries, delis, quaint bakeries and plenty of seafood restaurants. At the far north end of Half Moon is a famous big-wave surf spot called Mavericks, where legendary Hawaiian surfer Mark Foo died — hopefully while catching the ride of his life.
Six miles north of Half Moon Bay, near Montara, be sure to stop at the Moss Beach Distillery. The restaurant and bar is situated on a cliff which gazes out at the Ocean. They have a popular deck with porch swings and blankets to snuggle up in. It is a great place to watch the sunset.
Some of the other beaches in the Central San Mateo County include Cowell State Ranch, Martin’s Beach, San Gregorio and Pompono. Horseback riding is offered near some of these beaches.
Pebble Beach:
The southern part of San Mateo County has numerous splendid beaches, such as Pebble Beach. This is NOT the famous Pebble Beach golf spot that you might be thinking of Carmel, but you can stili have a good time at this seaside wonderland.
The beach is actually made up of shiny, small, colorful pieces of quartz, rather than sand. The coarse pebbles will tickle your toes and provide hours of entertainment for curious kids.
While you might be tempted to take home a few of these delightful treasures, it is strictly prohibited. To the north of the rocky cove are various tide pools where sea life of all shapes and sizes can be found. Take a gander into one of the many pools and you will see a thriving oceanic eco-system. It’s fun just to see what you might encounter.
This is a great spot for kids, but do be cautious because it is a very rocky beach and the tide pool area can be slippery. Dogs are welcome on the beach. No camping or fires are allowed. There is plenty of parking, public restrooms and a picnic area. Pebble Beach is a great place to spend a day exploring nature.
Another spot in the area worth checking out is Ana Nuevo State Reserve. It is about ten miles south of Pebble Beach off Highway 1. There is a three mile hike to reach the beach, but it is home to sea lions and seals, which is an amazing sight. The best time to go is December through February.
There is a $5 parking fee and guided tours are $4 per person.
Santa Cruz:
Off Highway 1, about 75 miles south of San Francisco, is the well-known beach of Santa Cruz, famous for its bustling boardwalk. The boardwalk is literally right on the beach and is thriving with roller coasters and rides for all ages.
They have sticky cotton candy, a spooky haunted house, carnival games and a traditional ferris-wheel. There is no admission to the boardwalk, you pay per ride. One note of caution, the boardwalk is not known for being the safest part of town.
Due to the attraction of the boardwalk the mile-long beach can get crowded during summer vacation. The summer months normally have a gloomy fog that lingers in the morning, but usually burns off by the afternoon.
The water is safe for swimming and lifeguards are on duty from May to October. The winter months bring surfable waves which can reach six feet high. There’s a pier that extends out from the
boardwalk where you can catch a ride on a catamaran and sail the ocean blue! Fishing is also allowed off this pier. For those with more of an adventurous spirit there are several shops in the neighborhood that rent sea kayaks.
And if that’s not enough, there’s also the Roaring Camp train that chugs along a 12-mile track from the boardwalk to Felton, In the Santa Cruz mountains. There are no fires allowed on this beach, so pyromaniacs are out of luck. Also, leave your pooch at home because this is not a dog-friendly beach – no dogs allowed. This public beach has restrooms and showers.
One thing to watch out for is the pooping seagulls. They will also vulture your food if you leave anything laying out.
Capitola:
For a trendy, Tiburon-style beach community, try Capitola. Monterey Avenue winds around downtown to the beach and is jam-packed with chic-yet-casual restaurants and oodles of coffee bars, as well as shops galore. So whether you’re in the mood to swig a martini, sip an espresso or shop-til-you-drop, this is the place to be.
Capitola Beach is the only main beach in this area and is only about a mile long, so it can get very crowded in the peak tourist season (June to August). Being on Monterey Bay, the beach is protected from wind and waves, which makes for great swimming. For your safety, lifeguards are on duty from May through October. There is a great break near the far Southern end of the beach, which is perfect for longboarding. Volleyball is also a popular sport here and the nets are provided.
On a clear day, there is a great view of Monterey. Beach-goers will be happy to know that there are public restrooms and showers. There are no fires or camping allowed. Also, this is a people-only beach, no dogs allowed.
The one real pain about Capitola beach is the parking; it’s scarce. For a more spacious beach, try Twin Lakes beach which is about half-way between Santa Cruz and Capitola, off Highway 1. It is a day-use only beach and campfires are allowed. However, there is only street parking available.
Monterey:
About 115 miles south of San Francisco lies Monterey Bay, well-known for its aquarium where visitors can witness live shark feedings daily. The city of Monterey is located on a peninsula at the south end of the bay.
To the north of the city, just off Del Monte Avenue, is Monterey State Beach. This spacious two-mile beach is similar to Ocean Beach, yet less urbanized. It is bordered by sand dunes and constantly plagued by fog in the summer months.
Although it is a popular beach, due to its vastness it doesn’t become over crowded. The north end of the beach is more rough and rugged. It is the best area for surfing and there’s plenty of free parking. The southern portion, which is the most visited, is more protected from the elements and is a good spot for volleyball and swimming, but there is only meter parking. Kayaking and SCUBA diving are also popular in the area.
For those of you who are land-lovers check out the bike trail that runs along the beach. For naturalists, there is an extraordinary place to visit about 10 miles north of Monterey called Elkhorn Slough National Estuarine Reserve. It is off Highway 1, just inland from Moss Landing State Beach, a popular surf spot. This slough is a wonderful place to observe sea otters and various types of birds. Kayaking has become a favorite way for visitors to roam through this wetland.
RV camping is offered at Moss Landing State Beach which allows campers to take a day trip to explore the wildlife at Elkhorn slough.